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Learn about the day to day life of a successful private dog trainer in Chicago, IL. Gain insight into the challenges of being a trainer as well as tips to help you with your dog.
September 2008 - Posts
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 I was speaking with a client the other day about her dog that is afraid of men. Her dog is a rescue, had a rough background including some abuse by the previous owner. She had always been a little skittish around men, but until recently she had not been growling and now my client was concerned because it was becoming more frequent and severe. I asked what she had tried before speaking with me.
She told me that another trainer told her to use a spray bottle filled with water and spray her every time she growled. I cringed and immediately said that is REALLY bad advice. I used to be more gentle when I disagreed with a technique, but now with the popularity of The Dog Whisperer and other trainers that I mostly disagree with, I am getting more vocal when I hear bad training being practiced.
Why is spraying your dog or using cans filled with coins such BAD advice? Let me explain. The most common uses of using spray bottles or cans with coins are when dogs are growling or biting. In my client's case her dog was growling at men. So, her dog growled at a man and then got sprayed in the face. She felt that it was working because her dog stopped growling. However, I asked her if her dog was now comfortable with men. She said that she was not comfortable because she never went close to any of her male guests and still seemed uncomfortable around them.
You know what happened? She now has a dog that is STILL uncomfortable around men, but now doesn't growl at them becasue she doesn't like the consequence of getting sprayed in the face when she growled. My client taught her dog not to tell her when she is uncomfortable. That is BAD because growling and other signals are a warning when dogs are uncomfortable. If signals are punished, then you end up a dog that won't tell people when they are uncomfortable. People often get bit is when they don't have an idea when a dog is uneasy.
Some people will erroneously think that the problem is "solved" because their dog has stopped growling but that is not true. What should you do instead of these aversive techiques? You should slowly and systematically get your dog used the stimuli that currently cause discomfort and prove to her that she doesn't need to growl or feel unsafe. Have more questions? Visit my dog aggression forums more tips or join my community and ask me questions there.
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 I am not a fan of retractable leashes. There are dog lovers everywhere that swear by how wonderful they are and use them every day. While I think they are humane, (always my main criteria for even considering a dog product) I think they potentially cause more training problems than benefits.
- Dogs are taught to pull. When the leash is in retractable mode (not locked in place) your dog will always feel tension of the leash and will still be able to move forward. This can cause confusion. I recommend that when dogs put pressure on the leash, the handler should stop moving or gently move the other direction. This will teach your dog not to pull. The retractable leash can teach a dog to ignore pressure on the leash and pull harder.
- The handle is very combersome. To train effectively, you need to have good timing and be able to comfortably handle your dog and use rewards including toys or treats. The handle of the retractable leash can make training more difficult.
- It can scare dogs if the handle is dropped. If the handle is dropped, it can follow dogs on the ground and dogs can run from it while it dragging on the ground after them. This has happened to a few of my clients and it was very scary because their puppies panicked and ran far distances. Luckily, neither puppy was injured.
- The leashes get tangled. If you use a retractable leash and have ever tried to have an impromptu play session with a dog that you meet, I am sure you know what I mean. It can be very challenging to keep the leashes from getting tangled, and sometimes they can wrap around little puppy legs.
- Inconsistency. Besides having constant tension on the leash, dogs are able to walk varying distances in front of their guardians. This can create confusion when you want your dog to walk nicely next to you in the future. I recommend using a 6 foot, fixed length leash during training for consistency.
While I think these leashes are good in theory, I think the cons outway the benefits. If you want to give your dog more exercise, I recommend walking on a 6 foot leash and using fixed length long leashes or take your dog to a fenced in dog area for good romps.
Want to learn how to teach off-leash control? See my off leash control video and teach your dog to STOP!.
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If you have followed my blog, forum posts or radio show you know that I am completely against the use of prong collars, choke chains and shock collars for dogs. Besides the fundamental belief that dogs should be taught using humane methods, there is no excuse to use those outdated training tools because there are humane alternatives that allow anyone to painlessly control their dogs.
One of those tools is the SENSE-ible or Sensible harness. While there are no dog training miracles, I can confidently say that this product has literally changed the lives of many dogs all over. While the design is simple, the results are noticeable and immediate. I used to use and recommend Halti or Gentle Leaders for walking, but have moved away from those products almost entirely. While I absolutely put those "snoot loop" products in the humane category (unlike choke, prong or shock collars that are aversive and cause pain) dogs often take a long time to get comfortable with anything on their noses. Dog guardians sometimes give up out of frustration after days of seeing their dogs roll around in the grass or pawing their face.
The SENSE-ible harness, on the other hand, is easy to put on and dogs
acclimate to it instantly. There is a very slight learning curve for
people to use it as well. It does have to be sized correctly, however,
to avoid discomfort for dogs. If it is too small, it can cause rubbing
under the dog's armpits and if it is too loose, it can hang too low in
front and can cause minor chafing.
Yesterday I received a call from a client that purchased a SENSE-ible harness for her 70 lb., 7 month old fast-growing female Great Pyrenees mix. My client was not walking her very much because she pulled her and hurt her wrist after lunging after a squirrel. My client was concernced that she would pull her down on a walk. She called me to tell me that she just got back from a 30-minute walk with her dog and she said it was amazing how different it was. She said it was very pleasant and that she felt was able to manage her very well without fear of getting dragged down the street. She said she worked on the leash walking exercises that I recommended and it made the walk even better.
How It Works
So how does the SENSE-ible harness work? if you look at the picture of the adorable Beagle to the right, notice how the leash is attached to the front. If a dog is pulling, she is pulled gently around by turning her body the opposite way that she is pulling. It gives the person holding the leash the advantage by using leverage. One of the best aspects of the harness is that takes potentially painful pressure off of a dog's neck and distributes the pressure over her body.
Like all training tools, you still need to practice training while your dog is wearing the SENSE-ible harness. But, the harness makes it easier to manage your dog and focus on the training vs. anxiety that your dog will get away from you or hurt herself on a regular or metal collar.
Great for Dog-Dog Aggression
I recommend all my dog-dog aggression clients use the SENSE-ible harness. Besides removing negative associations when dogs appear with any neck collar, it also gives my clients more confidence that they can control their dog when he or she lunges at another dog. Being calm when working with aggression is very important, and this increases the comfort level for both dog and person.
Why It is Different From a Regular Harness
A regular harness that attaches to a metal clasp located on a dog's back does not make it easier to prevent pulling. On the other hand, it allows a dog to put her whole body into the walk and actually increases her ability to pull. Think sled dogs in Alaska. They put a harness on and pull the sled. The SENSE-ible is designed differently and takes away the leverage from the dog and gives it to the person holding the leash.
Why It is Different From an Easy Walk Harness
You can find a similar product in many stores called the Easy Walk Harness. From lots of personal experience and client feedback, this harness is not the same and is not as easy to use. While it is still a great product, it is designed a bit differently. The Easy Walk has multiple clasps and also has a loop in the front that tightens the harness as the dog pulls. The feedback that I have received from my clients consistently talks about how that harness is harder to size and often slips and needs to be readjusted. The multiple clasps (the SENSE-ible just has one) make it more complicated to size.
Finding a SENSE-ible Harness
My one criticism of the SENSE-ible harness is that it is not in many stores. In Chicago, there are only about 4 or 5 stores that carry it in my travel area, and there are countless pet supply stores within that area. I used to carry samples with me for years and tell clients where they can purchase the harness on their own. To make it easier for my clients, I started carrying the harness and selling it on my website.
You can purchase the harness or get more information here.
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 My clients often hire me to help rehabilitate their dog's problems. Sometimes they recently adopted an older dog that already has behavior problems, while others have had their dogs since they were puppies and were lax in one or more areas that resulted in behavior problems forming over a period of time.
One reason why this is a common problem is because all dogs develop differently. You might have had multiplie dogs from puppy to adulthood and never did any preventative work with any of them in the past. Even though you raised your current dog exactly the same way as your others, he now has a behavioral problem. I don't consider myself a pessimist, but I always assume the worst with dog development to insure that I am doing everything possible to prevent problems before they get out of control. It is an investment in your dog's future. Put the time in now and you will increase the chances that you will have many years of enjoyable experiences and much lower stress.
Insufficient Socialization. This is the most important task to focus on when working with a new puppy. The time-sensitive socialization period for puppies extends until approximately 18-20 weeks of age. During this time, your puppy will form associations with new people, sounds, smells, and events. If you spend enough time socializing your dog during this time, he will be a confident older dog. Read more about socialization here.
Not Practicing Separation Anxiety Prevention. Separation anxiety is the most challenging dog training topic to overcome. A dog that has separation anxiety has panic attacks when alone. The reason this is so challenging to treat is because dogs can regress if they are alone for a longer period of time than they can handle during treatment. For instance, if you work with your dog and get him comfortable with being alone for 30 minutes and you leave for two hours, he could regress and start to have a panic attack after only 10 or 15 minutes next time. Read more about separation anxiety prevention here.
Not using the Crate Enough. This is one of the most talked about puppy topics. Many people feel guilty about using the crate and resist doing it or don't use it enough. The crate, when used properly, is the best tool for efficiently housetraining your dog, preventing destruction, and preventing separation anxiety. Read more about crate training here.
Not Practicing Resource Guarding Prevention. Resource guarding occurs when a dog guards something around him and shows aggression. Resources can include bones, toys, food bowls, locations or people. This is treatable, but it is much easier to prevent. Read more about resource guarding prevention here.
Not Preventing Barking. Barking can be triggered for many reasons including aggression, alerting, fear, or demand behaviors. It is important to curb barking as soon as possible so it doesn't become a long-term problem. Read more about demand barking here. Read about barking at noises here. Read about barking out of windows here.
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 Kongs are one of the best antidotes to cure dog boredom.
I sometimes have to remind myself to use them as well because I get out of practice, but every time I use them it reinforces how great they are. I always talk to my clients about them and thought you might need a reminder as well.
If you don't know, Kongs are just one brand of a type of dog toy that allows food or treats to be stuffed inside. They are made of hard rubber and can be washed easily in the dishwasher to remove food residue. I view Kongs as food dispensers. Some dogs like to gnaw on them when they are empty, but most just find them interesting when stuffed with goodies.
It is raining today in Chicago and my dogs did not get their normal romp in the park. They seemed extremely bored so I fed them their dinner out of Kongs tonight. I split their dinner in two and did two "rounds" of Kong stuffing and finding games. They are all now passed out with full bellies and are very content.
Tips for Kong Stuffing
- Use anything that your dog finds tasty and agrees with his system. Options include cooked pasta, rice, peanut butter, wet dog food, dry dog food, treats, cheese, bread, oyster crackers, apple sauce, bananas, lunch meat, etc.
- I stay away from the Kong "sprays". I always read ingredient labels and they have all kinds of extra, unnecessary ingredients. Especially the peanut butter spray -- what's the point? Use regular peanut butter.
- Do not make it too difficult for your novice dog at first. If it is too challenging, even the best ingredients will be ignored because it is too much work.
- Freeze the Kong with the ingredients inside for your expert dog. This will make the extraction process take longer.
- If it is too difficult after freezing, microwave it for a few seconds to thaw it out and make it a bit easier.
- Microwave cheese inside before freezing to make it nice and solid.
- For bigger chunks to hold it together, use pasta or bread.
 Tips for Kong Feeding
Once you have practiced stuffing Kongs, finding what your dog can handle and getting your dog excited about Kongs, now you can really have fun!
- Work on a Stay cue and then hide your dog's Kong filled with his dinner around the house
- Use multiple Kongs with varying degrees of stuffing difficulty
- Use a specific cue such as "Go Find Your Kong" to teach your dog to search
- Don't hesitate to help your dog find the Kong if he gives up. Encouragement is a good thing to keep him interested.
- For a novice dog, use a leash and tether your dog to a doorknob during the hiding process.
Other Tips
You can work up to the point where you have your dog stay for 10 minutes or more, hide Kongs around the house and then have him search for it. Your dog will get the enjoyment of "hunting" for food, and then spending a lot of time searching and extracting his dinner. Ten minutes of time for you could equal hours  of fun for your dog. This is also a fantastic form of mental stimulation for dogs. What an efficient use of training time!
Also consider the Kong Time product. You can put four Kongs inside and set a 4 or 8 hour timer. It randomly ejects a Kong in that period of time. Great for dogs that are alone for long periods of time.
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 Walking a dog while trying to navigate a stroller can be extremely frustrating. Besides the normal frustrations with a pulling dog, there is also the danger and concern of a baby in the stroller. Visions of the dog pulling the stroller over and seeing the baby get hurt are not something that any parent wants to witness. So, what often happens? The dog often receives less walks because he is not able to walk nicely next to the stroller. That is a shame. Your dog will just get more rambunctious with each passing day if he is getting less exercise than he needs. With a little consistent work, you can walk your dog next to the stroller and have pleasant walks with your family.
Follow these steps and you will succeed. As with all training, your success might take some time, but it is worth it. You need a basic understanding of leash walking before you start working with your dog. If you need assistance, I recommend my Basic and Intermediate leash walking videos. You can watch them instantly on your computer and they also come with detailed notes to complement the information you will see in the video.
Steps to Walking Your Dog With the Stroller
Each step should be practiced in a small area close to your home without the baby in the stroller at first. As you practice more and gain more success, you can then add more distance.
Practice Holding the Leash
- First practice holding the leash on the handle of the stroller. Use a six foot leash, with your dog on your preferred side of the stroller. Hold the leash with both hands on the handle and walk slowly with your dog just a few steps. If your dog pulls, stop walking and gently move him back into position and give a treat.
- Add more steps and use encouragement to keep your dog in position. If he pulls, gently move him back into position and give a treat.
- Every time you go to a new location, you should lower your expectations, and give more encouragement and treats until your dog is used to the new environment.
Practice Turns
Turning with a stroller has its own set of challenges. For instance, if your dog is on the left side, turning left is challenging because you can run over your dog if you are not careful.
- Before you turn, say the direction of the turn.
- Move REALLY slowly at first so your dog understands that he needs to be careful of the wheels. Gently guide him into position, if necessary.
- Use lots of treats when he is in the correct position.
Practice With the Baby
Once you have practiced without the baby in the stroller and your dog is walking nicely, practice with the baby but use a helper to handle the leash if there is a "hot moment" such as your dog seeing a squirrel or another dog. Your helper can grab the leash and handle your dog, if necessary.
Practice, Practice, Practice
As with all training, practice makes perfect. The more you practice the more you will have nice, long pleasant walks with your whole family -- including your dog!
Happy Training!
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